Can or Box Pinhole
A pinhole camera is a small test light can or box with a black interior and a small hole in the center of one end. The use of common household materials, you can make a device that produces images.
The Box
A pinhole camera is a small test light can or box with a black interior and a small hole in the center of one end. The use of common household materials, you can make a device that produces images.
The Box
When you make a pinhole camera or rolls sheets, film, use a small can or box as the body of the camera. You can use anything that has a tight top - a clean paint can be a vegetable fat, 2 pounds of coffee can, a shoe box or even a box of oatmeal cylindrical.To be light-tight, paint the inside a matt black paint or line with black paper to avoid light reflection. If you use a plastic lid, paint the lid black.
Remember to paint inside and out, then prior to use, make sure that no paint chipped off. Chipped or peeling paint the cover to give light to the camera and ruin your photos.
Pinhole
The film is set inside the lid so you need to make the hole in the bottom of the box. You can make the hole in reality itself may, but is much easier to do on a sheet of paper or thin thick black metal and configure the space in a bigger hole cut in the center of the bottom of the box . Heavy-duty foil, cut a piece of aluminum from a soda can or paper support rolls of Kodak 120 film size is best for this purpose.The distance of the film from the hole and pinhole diameter will determine the angle and sharpness of the image. For a camera with a hole 3 to 6 inches of the movie, you get the best results if inch hole is 1 / 75 in diameter. You can make a hole this size by pushing a needle through No. 10 paper or metal to a point of the needle from the needle. The hole should be circular as possible.
TIP: You get a smooth hole if you rotate the needle as you push it through. If you use foil or paper, sandwiched between two lightweight cards while you make the pinhole. This will help you create a hole softer, rounder.
If you use a piece of aluminum from a soda can, put it on a hard surface and make a small hole in the aluminum with an awl or ice pick. == Do not press too hard tip should barely break the surface. See illustration. Expand and gentle touch of a needle No. 10 on the underside. You can smooth the rough edges with fine sandpaper.
Pinhole punch
Now you need to make a hole 1 / 4 inch or more in diameter in the middle of the lower end of the camera and tape your pinhole in position over the center of the hole. You can check to make sure the pinhole is perfectly round looking at the back of the camera. If you want the image is clearly visible, aim the camera toward the printed page if you see the letters clearly.
Shutter and Viewfinder
The shutter of the camera can be a piece of opaque paper, turning dark with a piece of tape. Use a small piece of tape to keep the shutter closed before and after taking a picture.
A viewfinder of a camera obscura, although not necessary, you can make two pieces of cardboard or wire. The front bezel of the display must be the same shape and slightly smaller than the film and just above the pinhole in the front of the camera. The rear frame is a sight watching over the top of the box and aligned with the center of the image above.
When you point your camera at subjects closer than 5 feet, place the subject are the viewfinder to allow for parallax - the difference between the view you see in the viewfinder and the image is captured on film. This effect is caused by the separation between the viewfinder and the pinhole.
Loading a Can or Box Pinhole Camera
A viewfinder of a camera obscura, although not necessary, you can make two pieces of cardboard or wire. The front bezel of the display must be the same shape and slightly smaller than the film and just above the pinhole in the front of the camera. The rear frame is a sight watching over the top of the box and aligned with the center of the image above.
When you point your camera at subjects closer than 5 feet, place the subject are the viewfinder to allow for parallax - the difference between the view you see in the viewfinder and the image is captured on film. This effect is caused by the separation between the viewfinder and the pinhole.
Loading a Can or Box Pinhole Camera
You can download the camera, film or fast photographic paper. Your choice of film or paper may depend in part on holding periods. Paper, because it is less sensitive to light than film, which will probably require exposure for about 2 minutes on a sunny. Film may require only 1 or 2 seconds to arguments in the light of the sun.
Paper is easier to handle because you can load it into the camera lighting for safety. If you do not have a safe light, you can work in the light of a flashlight covered with several layers of red cellophane paper placed 6 to 8 meters away. Most of the films, on the other hand, must be handled in total darkness.
If you use film, you can cut a roll of Kodak Tri-X Pan and KODAK T-MAX 400 Professional Film, 120 size, two 3/8-inch squares or 2 3 / 8 x 3 1/2- pieces an inch. This should be done in total darkness, of course. At night a closet will probably be dark enough if lights in adjoining rooms are turned off. Film as KODAK PROFESSIONAL TRI-X Pan, is easier to use because it is flat.
A camera from a 2 lb coffee can take a 2 1 / 4 x 3 1/4-inch pieces of film or photographic paper. You can use a 3 1 / 4 x 4 1/4-inch pieces while about 1 / 2 inch is cut from each corner of the film or paper. A camera from a 1 gallon paint can take a 4 x 5 inch piece of film or paper.
When you have the paper size or the movie you need is a tape firmly into the end of the chamber opposite the pinhole. The emulsion should face the hole. The emulsion side of photographic paper is the bright side. The emulsion on roll film is inside the loop. The film is identified by the notches on one side shorter. When the film is held vertically with the notches on the top edge toward the right side, the emulsion is facing you. Another way to determine the emulsion side of the paper or film is playing both sides with a wet finger. The emulsion side will feel a little sticky. Test near the edge to avoid a fingerprint in the center of the image. You will need a ribbon around if you are using rolls of film or paper cut-up. Recording two diagonal corners of work for the cinema. Close to the camera, making sure that the shutter is closed.
It's a good idea to practice with a piece of exposed film or paper before you try to load the camera to your actual photo.
Paper is easier to handle because you can load it into the camera lighting for safety. If you do not have a safe light, you can work in the light of a flashlight covered with several layers of red cellophane paper placed 6 to 8 meters away. Most of the films, on the other hand, must be handled in total darkness.
If you use film, you can cut a roll of Kodak Tri-X Pan and KODAK T-MAX 400 Professional Film, 120 size, two 3/8-inch squares or 2 3 / 8 x 3 1/2- pieces an inch. This should be done in total darkness, of course. At night a closet will probably be dark enough if lights in adjoining rooms are turned off. Film as KODAK PROFESSIONAL TRI-X Pan, is easier to use because it is flat.
A camera from a 2 lb coffee can take a 2 1 / 4 x 3 1/4-inch pieces of film or photographic paper. You can use a 3 1 / 4 x 4 1/4-inch pieces while about 1 / 2 inch is cut from each corner of the film or paper. A camera from a 1 gallon paint can take a 4 x 5 inch piece of film or paper.
When you have the paper size or the movie you need is a tape firmly into the end of the chamber opposite the pinhole. The emulsion should face the hole. The emulsion side of photographic paper is the bright side. The emulsion on roll film is inside the loop. The film is identified by the notches on one side shorter. When the film is held vertically with the notches on the top edge toward the right side, the emulsion is facing you. Another way to determine the emulsion side of the paper or film is playing both sides with a wet finger. The emulsion side will feel a little sticky. Test near the edge to avoid a fingerprint in the center of the image. You will need a ribbon around if you are using rolls of film or paper cut-up. Recording two diagonal corners of work for the cinema. Close to the camera, making sure that the shutter is closed.
It's a good idea to practice with a piece of exposed film or paper before you try to load the camera to your actual photo.
Exposure
To get crisp, clear images, the camera is still very still while the shutter is open. Use plenty of tape or a piece of clay to hold the camera steady. Lift the black paper to reveal a pinhole, and to maintain the open hole for the recommended time. Cover the pinhole with black paper liabilities.
The following table shows the approximate exposure recommendations for a pinhole camera. It's a good idea to make three exposures of different durations of each stage to increase the likelihood that you will have a good image.
The following table shows the approximate exposure recommendations for a pinhole camera. It's a good idea to make three exposures of different durations of each stage to increase the likelihood that you will have a good image.
KODAK Film | Bright Sun | Cloudy Bright |
| TRI-X Pan, T-MAX 400, or ROYAL Pan Film 4141 (ESTAR Thick Base) | 1 or 2 seconds | 4 to 8 seconds |
| T-MAX 100 Film | 2 to 4 seconds | 8 to 16 seconds |
Processing and Printing
Process and negative film print as usual. Dry the paper negative and make a contact print as usual, with '(image) emulsion side of the paper negative toward the emulsion (glossy) of the press.
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